What seafaring tips can you use that cost next to nothing, but will reward you with more time seafaring--and less time waiting for expensive sail repairs? Follow these simple steps to save lots of money and keep your sails in tip-top shape! The following article will lead us through the topic Ways to add life to your sailing chicago career.
Also to keep things manageable, I would suggest using only the mainsail, for now, it's best to wait until you have gained a certain amount of experience by using the sails individually at first. You will have plenty of opportunities to use both at a later time. Assuming that the main is up, next, you will need to turn the tiller towards your intended direction of travel until the sail finds the wind.
Dry Your Headsail before you Stow It: Mold and mildew love to bed down in a moist fold of Dacron or Nylon. Cut these ugly outlaws down before they stain your costly sails. Dry your sails before you bag them when you get back to the dock. Hoist the headsail or mainsail on a light air day for a few minutes. This dries your sail fast and easy without the fuss of looking for a shore side method.
So unlike a car, the tiller works just the opposite! On the other hand, a ship wheel works the same as the steering wheel on an automobile. So depending on how your sailboat is equipped with a tiller or a ships wheel will determine how you will steer with it. I would recommend learning how to sail with the wind for a while before tacking or seafaring upwind.
But the first three years of this boat's life it had Polytarp sails. There is no big difference to me, performance wise, between the professionally made "real" sails it has now and the polytarp sails we originally used. The poly tarp worked just fine. Many people turn up their noses at poly tarp as a sail making material.
Inspect Your Stitching on Every Seam and lubricate your Mast Boom Slot: Thread holds your sails together. And after time, even triple-stitched panels, patches, and seams break down. Battens rub against pocket stitching, and sails flog and flap. Check the folded seam stitching along each sail edge. Next, move across each horizontal panel.
Look at the patches at the head, tack, clew, and reef points. Mark worn areas with a pencil. Take the sail to your sail maker (or sew it yourself), and it will reward you with a trouble-free performance next seafaring season. Use beeswax or light, waterproof lubricant to slick the slots in your mast and sailboat boom.
Next, you'll need to turn or come about. There are essentially two ways to accomplish this, by tacking or turning upwind is one way, or you can jibe or turn downwind which is faster than a tack turn. The reason being is that in a jibe turn you have the wind behind you pushing the sailboat through the turn, as opposed to a turning into the wind in a tack turn.
Also to keep things manageable, I would suggest using only the mainsail, for now, it's best to wait until you have gained a certain amount of experience by using the sails individually at first. You will have plenty of opportunities to use both at a later time. Assuming that the main is up, next, you will need to turn the tiller towards your intended direction of travel until the sail finds the wind.
Dry Your Headsail before you Stow It: Mold and mildew love to bed down in a moist fold of Dacron or Nylon. Cut these ugly outlaws down before they stain your costly sails. Dry your sails before you bag them when you get back to the dock. Hoist the headsail or mainsail on a light air day for a few minutes. This dries your sail fast and easy without the fuss of looking for a shore side method.
So unlike a car, the tiller works just the opposite! On the other hand, a ship wheel works the same as the steering wheel on an automobile. So depending on how your sailboat is equipped with a tiller or a ships wheel will determine how you will steer with it. I would recommend learning how to sail with the wind for a while before tacking or seafaring upwind.
But the first three years of this boat's life it had Polytarp sails. There is no big difference to me, performance wise, between the professionally made "real" sails it has now and the polytarp sails we originally used. The poly tarp worked just fine. Many people turn up their noses at poly tarp as a sail making material.
Inspect Your Stitching on Every Seam and lubricate your Mast Boom Slot: Thread holds your sails together. And after time, even triple-stitched panels, patches, and seams break down. Battens rub against pocket stitching, and sails flog and flap. Check the folded seam stitching along each sail edge. Next, move across each horizontal panel.
Look at the patches at the head, tack, clew, and reef points. Mark worn areas with a pencil. Take the sail to your sail maker (or sew it yourself), and it will reward you with a trouble-free performance next seafaring season. Use beeswax or light, waterproof lubricant to slick the slots in your mast and sailboat boom.
Next, you'll need to turn or come about. There are essentially two ways to accomplish this, by tacking or turning upwind is one way, or you can jibe or turn downwind which is faster than a tack turn. The reason being is that in a jibe turn you have the wind behind you pushing the sailboat through the turn, as opposed to a turning into the wind in a tack turn.
About the Author:
You can get a summary of the factors to consider when picking a sailing Chicago instructor and more information about an experienced instructor at http://www.saltydogchicago.com now.
