Monday, February 24, 2014

Go-To Stops For Seeing The Best European Cities Of The East

0 comments
By Mitchell Jones


Many Americans, when presented with the prospect of visiting the best European cities, conjure images of the Eiffel Tower, the Spanish Steps, the Ramblas or St. Paul's Cathedral. This western orientation, though, may be a consequence of so much of Eastern Europe being closed off by the Iron Curtain for so many years.

Thankfully the days of totalitarian communism are all well behind us. And while the new gems in the crown of Europe's great tourist cities don't shimmer quite as gloriously as when they first became open to visitors, back in the 90s, the cities of Eastern Europe remain remarkable opportunities. They bring together breathtaking architecture, delicious food, ancient cultures, affordable prices and people who remain free from tourism-overload cynicism.

Here are our top three on the list of must-see cities:

BUCHAREST

If #3 takes you by surprised, we're not surprised. Its charms remain still widely unacknowledged in mainstream tourism. This fact likely contributes to its appeal. We offer fair warning, though, don't wait too long or this lovely gem could be swamped by the time you get there.

Dubbed little Paris as a result of its distinctive French influence, Bucharest is a great city that survived the bleakest of the bleak Iron Curtain totalitarians in far better shape than might have been anticipated. Back in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, before the Communists got hold of it, Bucharest experienced a developmental flourishing.

There were great achievements in architecture and culture. Among the most prominent were the building of Bucharest University, Grand Hotel du Boulevard, the Botanical Garden, the Atheneum, and Casa Capsa.

In general, the city's wide, tree-lined boulevards, glorious Belle Epoque buildings and a reputation for high style, has provided it its well deserved little Paris moniker. A bustling metropolis, Romania's largest city and capital is an absolute must see if you're in search of the East's best European cities.

2. PRAGUE

True, our second on the list isn't quite the surprise as the #3 spot. Don't though make the mistake of letting its predictability put you off a truly remarkable experience. This may be among the best-known East European cities, but, make no mistake; it comes by its reputation honestly.

A city awash in dazzling architecture, it is replete with unending eye-candy vistas of bridges, cathedrals, gold-tipped towers and church domes. Perhaps most impressively it somehow is able to beautifully blend the old, medieval center characterized by cobbled lanes, walled courtyards, cathedrals and countless church spires, with the modern city, packed with excellent fine dining restaurants, and all the sublime music and art you could wish for.

It goes without saying, when you're visiting Prague there are certain venues you simply have to experience. At the top of that list are the Charles Bridge, the Prague Castle/St. Vitus Cathedral, and the Old Town Square, with its well-known Astronomical Clock. Goodness, though, don't stop there. There are too many other marvelous secrets to discover.

For instance, while Prague is famed for its grand cafes, here's a tip, when seeking a relaxing coffee break on your journeys about town, look a little higher. The city's most refined and atmospheric downtown cafes will be found in fact up on the first floor.

It is amazingly that these are overlooked by most tourists. All the better for you. You'll be left speechless by the elegance and refinement of the period interiors. The coffee is dependably exquisite and the clientele always well appointed in the old European way. Top recommendations are the Grand Cafe Orient above the Cubist Museum and Cafe Louvre. The latter, I'm told, was once of haunt of both Kafka and Einstein.

KRAKOW

If you found the second place on our list a bit predictable, you probably won't think the same of our position of honor. Krakow though is indeed a precious find; it hides away some of the best kept secrets of Europe: beautiful architecture and old world charm are everywhere. Krakow's restaurants enjoy a deserved reputation for being quaint, atmospheric eateries with excellent food, for very affordable prices.

Don't, though, let its relative freshness on the tourist trail mislead you. Krakow is no longer undiscovered. Steven Spielberg's awarding film, Shindler's List, both shot and based on events that took place here, has changed all that. The tourism at this point, though, remains located in very specific parts of town. If you want to get away and see the real Krakow, it still can be done. The best tip we can offer is this: get over to Podgrze.

A working-class area being slowly revitalized by Krakow's boho set, seeking refuge from the tourist influx into the town center and Jewish district, Podgrze is surprising easy to access. Simply cross the Laetus Bernatek footbridge. It's easy to do, but most tourists just don't venture across it. Once you're into Podgrze, you'll find a vibrant area with plenty of bars and cafes, for all tastes. You'll have to choose what the right flavor is for you.

To mention just one, see Klub Drukarnia. It is a happening jazz club providing glorious sunset views over the Wisla River. Its basement hosts concerts and DJ nights. Among its features are a saloon-style smoking room and a smarter side with velvet seats and a long bar with huge windows looking out over the river. Come hang with the hip set of Krakow.

Much as you might enjoy the music and food of Podgrze, the real attraction on this side of the river is Liban Quarry. This place is something else. It's a must-see. Honestly, the term surreal may get overused, but it's perfectly chosen for this place. Originally the quarry of a 19th century Jewish owned limestone company, the Nazis converted it into a forced labor camp. Perhaps they felt there was some irony. The price of this irony was many people's lives; forced labor, when enforced by those as serious as the Nazis, meant worked to death.

After the war it was dedicated as a memorial to the victims of the atrocities. Over the decades, though, the city has turned its back on the place leaving it to be reclaimed by nature. It has become a kind of spontaneous wildlife sanctuary, now: home to waterfowl, birds of prey, pheasants and various other animals - including the occasional apparently wild horse. The rusting refinery equipment and memorial gravestones, with the looming limestone cliffs, have given way to ponds and dense vegetation. I'll leave you to speculate on the symbolism.

If a visit to Liban Quarry, as it often does, leaves you feeling a little melancholy, maybe even spooked, I suggest you finish off your day with a heart warming nightcap. Coming back across the bridge from Podgrze you'll discover two delightful cafes just on the city side. These are Mostowy Art Cafe, a large and elegant gallery cafe, and its next door neighbor, the more modest Po Drodze. The latter is a cosy old kitchen cafe where they'll spice up your coffee with a vodka shot. That's the way to end your day.




About the Author:



Leave a Reply